Through the Grapevine with Lauren Hansen
What's it like to be a young professional in the vibrant world of Australian wine? Our ‘Through the Grapevine’ interview series explores the diverse career paths, inspiring stories, and innovative ideas of the individuals shaping the industry's future. Together, we're growing the future of wine.
Meet Lauren Hansen, Owner Bloomfield Wines & Senior Winemaker at Penley Estate, who at 34 was named Dux of the 2024 Len Evans Tutorial.
Q: What sparked your initial interest in winemaking? Was it a particular moment or experience that solidified your passion for this craft?
A: There are so many little moments - I feel like it’s only now that I can look back and see the combination of tiny sparks of joy, that nudged me down this path. I’ve always been quite creative, but also a bit of a chemistry nerd. I remember feeling incredibly conflicted between these two spaces from quite a young age, not realising there was a space where they coexist! A hilarious moment I quite enjoy reflecting on, I was sitting in the kitchen with my Mum and we were going through the process of choosing subjects for my following year at high school (I was the wise old age of maybe 14 or 15) - and after much frustration at the lack of inspiration I was finding in the job guide, I declared that I just wanted a job where I could “drink wine, travel, and be outdoors” - a total smart arse, but hell, I like to think that little smart arse would be proud. Somehow this lead to work experience in a winery (two days, incredibly memorable), my careers counsellor telling me winemaking was “a waste of my time” (I need to drop a bottle of wine on her desk), and a couple of vintages later - there was no changing my mind & off to uni I went.
“A hilarious moment I quite enjoy reflecting on, I was sitting in the kitchen with my Mum and we were going through the process of choosing subjects for my following year at high school (I was the wise old age of maybe 14 or 15) - and after much frustration at the lack of inspiration I was finding in the job guide, I declared that I just wanted a job where I could “drink wine, travel, and be outdoors”.
Q: Bloomfield Wines is your brand-new venture. What inspired you to start your label, and what's your vision for its future?
A: While 2024 was the inaugural Bloomfield vintage, it’s been an idea brewing for a solid decade, slowly developing and changing as my winemaking career evolved. I remember doodling wine label ideas in uni lecture note margins, researching potential names, and even registering an Instagram handle or two along the way. I can’t pinpoint a particular moment of inspiration when the idea took hold, but it’s always been the dream. I’ve always found excuses and reasons why it’s not the right time. Whether that’s about fruit sources, budget, employers, or the classic & never-ending excuse of being “busy”. I’m so grateful for a few less-than-gentle nudges that kicked me over the line last year. Finding the right fruit, having incredibly supportive employers, and having some savings ready to roll have all been crucial, and then leaning into the incredible network of people around me to help bring it all together. The vision for the future of bloomfield is still evolving. I’d only thought about it as a side hustle until recently - but who knows, maybe my dream of vineyard chickens is where bloomfield is headed. TBC - will report back!
Q: Penley Estate has a rich history. How do you honour that legacy while also bringing your perspective and innovation to the winemaking process?
A: One of the most unique and incredibly special parts of Penley is the balance of history and evolution. With such a rich history, it would be easy to stay still and keep things the same, but that is not the MO at Penley. Ang and Bec (Tolley: Penley owners) have always pushed the team to keep the wines relevant, and very much the same with the brand. It’s almost like there’s a new label mindset with the depth and reputation of an established brand. The range of wines has also given us space to explore - some of our staple Cabernets are more about evolving and making small tweaks to improve the small one percenters, whereas the project range lets us be a little wild and trial some crazy ideas here and there. I think it comes down to having a team that is willing to give something a crack, and an open mind to bounce around ideas (which Kate Goodman and I are constantly doing).
“While 2024 was the inaugural Bloomfield vintage, it’s been an idea brewing for a solid decade, slowly developing and changing as my winemaking career evolved. I remember doodling wine label ideas in uni lecture note margins, researching potential names, and even registering an Instagram handle or two along the way.“
Q: What are some of the biggest challenges you've faced as a winemaker, and how have you overcome them? This could include challenges specific to the region, the vintage, or the industry in general.
A: Ooft. This is a big one… I’d love to stay bright and sparkly and talk about missing things like WOMAD because of vintage, but there have been some real bumps along the way. Some fairly gnarly challenges very early in my career had the potential to drive me away from winemaking and had a significant impact on my mental health. Sometimes it feels a little bit like death by a thousand tiny paper cuts - a comment about my age, my gender, a situation I shouldn’t have to deal with - in isolation, these can sound insignificant, but it’s the compounding impact that can sit heavy at the end of a big week. Even dealing with people’s perception of me (too young to be a winemaker, must work in marketing, only good at making cabernet) or judgement that shows up in questions/comments like “how long are you planning to stay in Coonawarra”, “you need to find a husband” (YES, someone in a mentoring role said that!). I think it’s important to talk about these challenges, especially in a space like Rootlings - but I’ll stop there to avoid getting weighed down. At the end of the day, there are some excellent humans in the wine game - those people have kept me here, and I wouldn’t have it any other way.
Q: What are some of the most rewarding moments you've experienced in your winemaking career so far?
A: How long do we have? There are so many moments! It’s easy to focus on the big shiny things - but as I’m scanning back through memories, there’s so many little things - like language-crossing conversations while travelling for overseas vintages, meeting future mentors while driving around the wine regions of Victoria in a Wicked van in uni holidays, and getting a crash course in Bordeaux regions in chalk on the side of a barrel before a truly epic dinner.
The big shiny things have been incredibly rewarding too. Last August, I got a phone call from Iain Riggs letting me know I’d made it into the Len Evans Tutorial. Getting into the Tutorial was something I’d dreamed about since hearing stories about during my vintage at Brokenwood. The week of LET was incredibly challenging, and so rewarding - but being awarded Dux wasn’t something that had crossed my mind - I’d been so focused on just being present, staying curious, and trusting my gut (and having the best week ever!). I feel like the photo of the moment I was announced as the Dux says it all really - so many happy tears!!
Aside from LET, being part of the Future Leaders cohort in 2022 would be up there in terms of career highlights. I’m incredibly grateful for the knowledge, network, and personal growth gained as part of this program.
Q: What's your approach to wine show judging? Do you have any tips for people thinking about starting their wine show judging journey and wanting to learn more?
A: I love being involved with wine shows & judging - gosh, they’re intense weeks. I always feel like I come away feeling equally energised and exhausted (and with VERY black teeth!!). In terms of my approach… I think it’s really important to remember that every wine is someone’s blood, sweat and tears - and entry fee! A balance between trusting my first thoughts about a wine and giving it time.
“Some fairly gnarly challenges very early in my career had the potential to drive me away from winemaking and had a significant impact on my mental health. Even dealing with people’s perception of me like “I’m too young to be a winemaker”, “I must work in marketing”, “I’m only good at making cabernet” can weigh you down”.
When it comes to getting involved, I started by stewarding at my local wine show. The smaller regional shows are a great place to start - email the committee, apply for an associate position, put your hand up, and make sure people know you’re keen to get involved. Completing the AWAC (Advanced Wine Assessment Course at AWRI) helped me get a foot in the door at a few more shows, too. It’s all about getting a few runs on the board and getting some experience.
Q: What do you love most about Coonawarra? What makes it special for growing grapes and producing wine?
A: When I moved to Coonawarra, the community here was one of the first things I noticed. It felt different to other places I’d worked. Being a solid distance from a major city is a big contributing factor here, sort of like a banding together that happens. I love the cross section of people you get to chat to at a “tea night” at the Coonawarra Club, and the willingness of other winemakers, grape growers, business owners and mechanics(!!) to lend a hand when you’re in a tight spot. A tiny town with a very big heart!
From a winemaking perspective, starting bloomfield has emphasised just how diverse the landscape of the Limestone Coast is! My 500km loop to visit growers highlights that - from the super cool climate and flinty soils in Mount Gambier, the epic coastlines of Robe & Mount Benson, to the beautiful limestone base to Coonawarra and Wrattonbully, there are so many beautiful little pockets to explore! To get a little bit nerdy for a sec, one very cool feature of this region is the Bonney upwelling. This brings FREEZING cold Antarctic waters to the coastline from November to May, which gives us the most beautiful cool nights and cooling afternoon breezes during the growing season. It’s also the reason we have beautiful crayfish over summer. A swim in the ocean in Robe is the quickest way to understand how cold those waters are!
Q: What are your thoughts on the future of Australian winemaking? What trends are you seeing, and what excites you about the industry's evolution?
A: Considering everything that’s going on in the wine industry right now - and working for a small family-owned brand that is currently for sale, it might sound quite strange to say that I’m incredibly excited for the future of Australian winemaking. I say this with an absolute awareness that so many wine industry businesses are struggling at the moment. I do my best to stay hopeful that through the storm of all the challenges we are facing as an industry, there’s something brighter ahead. There are so many young wine brands, people giving it a real crack, and brands with history embracing change and making progressive ,modern & delicious wines. Seeing programs like Rootlings emerge & grow into a national program, being part of groups like Women and Revolution and feeling connected to women across all aspects of the wine industry, and seeing the investment that goes into programs like Future Leaders and Next Crop. There is investment in PEOPLE like never before. Connection and people drew me into the wine industry and it’s these things that keep me here, too.
